How to Decontaminate your paint

Hi, in this tutorial I will be showing how to decontaminate your paint, in others words remove microscopic size particles known as containments. You see washing the car is not enough to remove these particles so we have to use special chemicals and products to do this.

Products Used
Foam Cannon containing various soaps
Meg's C2000 Pro Clay
ONR Clay Lube
Wolf's Chemical Deionizer
Elevated TARinator (This is my own product)
HD Poxy





Here is the subject and my ride to all the meets. My mom's beloved Accord



From far it looks pretty good but it's another story when we get a close up





I use a citrus degreaser on the lower parts of the car to loosen debris so they easily rinse out



I then use my foam cannon to help the car get clean with least mechanical abrasion



That's the only GAT I roll with

So I started to spray the car down





I used a brush to get into all the nooks and crannies



Also a very important TIP, before you dress your tires please clean them



After that I used a 2 bucket method wash



After I dried the car, I took some pictures of the containments I am talking about

In this case Iron filings



and here is some tar



Here is the iron filings and tar contaminates being OWNED











Next I use traditional clay, to clean the rest of the paint



After I used something called HD polymer sealants, it's my first time trying this but I hear it's good



Applied a bit, remember Thin is IN


Applied, waiting for it to cure



Buff off and I applied tire gel. Now some pro detailers will tell you that they used water based tire gel because it's less greasy but the one I use silicone based is great for durability and is not that greasy at all



Results

Nice, I just helped my cousin clean his white lexus yesterday. He had those orange/brown spots everywhere and we had no idea what it was.
Took a while, but clay removed as many as we could manage.
Can you post up a close-up pic of a spot where you had iron/tar spots post-clean? Just for a comparison.
Also curious as to what you used to remove them pre-claying? Looks like some good stuff!

Yes, interested as well on what product that is, supposedly the foaming action helps in reducing swirls?!

thats like molly maid clean

atta boy thats some serious product

Juice wrote:Nice, I just helped my cousin clean his white lexus yesterday. He had those orange/brown spots everywhere and we had no idea what it was.
Took a while, but clay removed as many as we could manage.
Can you post up a close-up pic of a spot where you had iron/tar spots post-clean? Just for a comparison.
Also curious as to what you used to remove them pre-claying? Looks like some good stuff!

I used Wolf's Chemicals Deionizer I still have 2L left, if you want I can sell that to you or your cousin. It will come with a Kwazar Venus Pro 2L sprayer which alone is $25. 2L is enough for 10 applications of car the size of GS350. I can also sell you the Elevated Tarinator (Best name I could come up with) but it does contain carcinogens so I will need to see that you own a 3M Respirator with the proper cartridges. (1L for $20) This is one of a few products that are VOC compliant and work well at the same time.

Close ups I will post on Saturday because this is a shared vehicle so I don't get to see it in the day until then.

Thanks,

Hamza

326_godzilla wrote:Yes, interested as well on what product that is, supposedly the foaming action helps in reducing swirls?!

Yes the foaming action acts as a lubricant between my wool mitt and the car's body so there's less chance of swirls and scratches. I try to detail the safest way possible as much as possible. If you have swirls in your paint, get at me I'm good at getting them out!

hughheff wrote:thats like molly maid clean

atta boy thats some serious product

Thanks, I tried to find you in the meet yesterday but sadly I could only see your car and I was trying to locate you then I was talking to some people and all I saw was your car leave. Sorry about that but I did have the rinseless products in my car was going to show you how to use them.

Also the reason I was applying the sealant in the sun was because it was too cold and it wasn't curing fast enough, but in the spring and summer I want to see all you wax or seal in the shade and not the SUN. Do not attempt some of the things you have seen here if you are not comfortable with them.

next meet ill find you! i saw that car there also, were u rockin a t-shirt ?! no one has a name tag so yeah kinda hard to put a face to a car or a car to a face 4 that matter

but yeah, that stuff is pretty intense. dont even think i need a demo, ill grab some product off u next week or next time we all get together.

how long do you usually let wax cure for? sealant as well..

maxima_tyler wrote:how long do you usually let wax cure for? sealant as well..

It really depends on the weather and the product. Let's take this upcoming week, 19 deg. C. with decent humidity and my sealants cure pretty fast so I try to in under 10 minutes of application of the last panel. So I mean I start at the hood and work my way around to the trunk, after 10 minutes of applying to the trunk, I will start buffing off from the hood. There are two types of waxes, Hybirds and pure carnauba. Hybirds cure almost exactly like sealants and pure's they take a bit longer around 45 minutes in the environment described.


All that being said and these are insiders secrets SO SSSHHHH....

• If the sealant cured for to long use a quick detailer to help remove the product by either spraying on the paint or your removal towel
  
• If you get smearing by letting it cure to long then just reapply product and remove in a timely manner
  
• Try to keep the applicator moise by applying water to it (For waxes only) you use less product this way and it will help you spread thing
  
  
• Also spread THIN, LESS IS WAAAAY MORE when waxing

Also enjoy detailing, it's suppose to be therapeutic.