question for all those that know about turbo setups

CorpsEv2 wrote:True. Sounds good..

Take Rukuss' off him, he doesn't drive it.. LOL

oh burn.....
when i get back to work ill be on the road all the time
it just no where 2 park my beast close to where i live so i had to park her in barrie (200km away) :(

does this mean your running the cscs time attack series for next year?

More folks would be fun.

organize a team

i'll be in it

Before you go out and buy anything the first question you should ask yourself is how much power do you want to make? Only then after you make your decision you go and start buying components around that goal. You don't get the biggest turbo for only 300hp like I see so many do...

I don't know too much about Mitsubishi so I am not familiar with the engine specs or any rough numbers of what the stock internals will handle. Is your car currently N/A? If so the compression ratio is probably at least 9.5:1. That compression ratio will give you nice low end torque and off boost performance but you will be limited from running too much power due to detonation.

I have turboed a couple of stock KA24DE (stock 240sx motor) motors in the past. The compression ratio on those are 9.5:1 and it is a 2.4L motor. Those motors don't really like to see over 300HP on stock internals. On those if my customer wanted to run a little more power I would recommend a thicker head gasket and ARP head studs. With a T28 I would typically make 300whp with a stupidly quick spool.

Let us know how much power you want to make and I can give you some ideas.

1 more hp than the sun! Where do I start:p

Whats the engine code? Might be ablet to do it much easier dunno yet.

gongster, has great info puts it down quite nicely lots of factors come into play, thats y i did my internals, all of them!

for example on my stock motor using a 19t turbo (its an oem volvo found on higher models) they r inefficient past say 16psi. but it will handle it on 16psi if the boost doesnt hit under 3 grand anything below will dispence u a banana

s_moneh wrote:gongster, has great info puts it down quite nicely lots of factors come into play, thats y i did my internals, all of them!

for example on my stock motor using a 19t turbo (its an oem volvo found on higher models) they r inefficient past say 16psi. but it will handle it on 16psi if the boost doesnt hit under 3 grand anything below will dispence u a banana

arite so a 19t turbo is inefficent above 16psi...stock motor can take 16psi as long as boost doesn't kick in below 3 grand....so you changed all your internals? am I understanding that correctly?

that is correct sir, i however am not staying stock with volvo turbo's i'll be probably throwing on a .60trim precision turbo hopefully on a tubular manifold mehehe

i used this as an example, because its good to know what your bottom end can handle and its limits, if u start going big and u dont have any support it goes down hill from there :(

I've been dying to build my engine a little, but these past 3ish months have been an absolute monster on my wallet :( What I Was planning to do in the coming summer was the following:

HT07-4b Turbo (or RHB31FW if I could ever find one...)
295cc injectors (or 320cc I'm not sure which would be better)
3-BAR MAP
Analogue TPS
LC-1 wideband
and run it with an e420-C ecu. (I almost got this ecu for $400 last fall but the fella had sold it no more than an hour before I got in touch with him...DOH!)

Gonna be putting those plans off for a while now But what do you guys think, sound like the right track or am I getting something totally wrong there? In anycase I've now got time to really plan it out fully haha.

We can always calculate using a compressor map to see when a certain turbo will be inefficient.

Here is an example:
Turbo is a GT28RS. Here is the compressor map for it:


We now need to find out how much air the engine uses at different RPM and pressures to see if this turbo is a good fit. Lets assume we have a 2L engine which has a volumetric efficiency of 85%. To find out airflow this is the formula:

CFM = L x RPM x VE x PR / 5660

L is displacement in liters, RPM you all know what that is, VE is volumetric efficiency, PR is pressure ratio.

PR = 14.7+boost / 14.7

The PR of atmospheric pressure is 1. The PR at 15psi of boost is 2.02.

So lets see how much will this engine flow at 7000RPM@15psi boost.
CFM = 2 x 7000 x 85 x 2.02 / 5660
CFM = 424.7
How about 4000RPM@15psi
CFM = 2 x 4000 x 85 x 2.02 / 5660
CFM = 242.7

Now lets take a look at the compressor map. Plot 424.7CFM with a pressure ratio of 2.02. That puts us in a good spot, about 75% efficiency at 7000RPM.

How about at 4000RPM? When we plot 242.7CFM at a PR of 2.02 we are still pretty close to the sweet spot

So what if we upped the boost to 23 PSI? That would give us a PR of 2.56 which means at 7000RPM we would have 538.23CFM. If you were to plot that on the compressor map you would see that it falls outside the map! At 4000RPM we are flowing 307.6CFM which still falls inside the map. What does this mean? We will produce 23psi at 4000RPM but boost will start to drop off as we get closer to redline because this turbo cannot flow enough air.

Hope this helps a little with those asking themselves what turbo is needed.

nice .this is good info to know

Start with a power goal....figure out turbo efficiency at desired boost....on most close to stock factory turbo'd 4 cylinders each psi of boost generally adds about 7hp. Crazy power upgrades require intake exhaust and clutch upgrades..which all cost money:( good luck!